You've been to the San Juan's lots of times, why not try an adventure? Join
the Chase's in their boat the "Independence" and let's go to Greenway Sound Marine Resort in the beautiful Broughton Island archipelago! "What better place is there to be but on your boat in the Broughton's."
We'll start our adventure from beautiful Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island. While in Friday Harbor, you'll want to pick up a tide and current guide for the various locations in British Columbia. Your first decision is, "What Canadian Port of Entry are you going to use?" You have two to choose from - Bedwell and Sidney. Bedwell is closer and located in the Gulf Islands. However, Sidney is small city where you can get Canadian money, groceries, and supplies. Clearing Canada Customs is generally very easy - if you're prepared. Know the import restrictions on fresh fruit, liquor and tobacco. Have birth certificates or passports for each person on board, if you have children on board, but not both parents, make sure you have a signed note stating it is okay for them to travel to Canada. Have your vessel documentation or registration ready, and have a trip plan. Why a trip plan? You'll need to know where your farthest destination is, and how long you will be in Canada.
Once you clear Canada Customs you are faced with your second decision, "When is slack current at Dodd Narrows?" Dodd Narrows is approximately 36 nm from Sidney, or 35 nm from Bedwell. Don't try to traverse Dodd Narrows at any time except at slack. Currents can exceed 7 knots with numerous whirlpools, rips, and overfalls. However at slack, be prepared to traverse this narrow channel with many other boats. Dodd Narrows is a no-wake zone, so watch your speed. And, be patient! Again, there are many other boats trying to get through these narrows with you. If you're going to miss the slack current at Dodd Narrows, there are a wide variety of Gulf Island locations to choose from to moor or anchor. Many locations have a pub, or restaurant, or other amenities. One of our favorites is either of the two great marinas at Thetis Island.
Once through Dodd Narrows you are at Nanaimo. This is a great place to buy groceries and supplies, go out to dinner, stretch your legs at Newcastle Is. or the Nanaimo waterfront, or get fuel. It's also a great place to rest up before you tackle the Georgia Strait. There are plenty of moorage alternatives and anchorage is at Newcastle Island. Once again, you're faced with another decision - "Do I cross the Strait over to Desolation Sound, or take the direct route to Campbell River?" Crossing the Strait to Desolation Sound seems to be the most popular route since there are more mooring and anchoring options if the wind starts to blow. However you may have to deal with "Area Whiskey Golf" the torpedo testing range. To determine if "Area Whiskey Golf" is "active" listen to the weather radio, or contact "Winchelsea Control" on VHF Channel 10. If the area is active you will be required to avoid the area by going north to near the Ballenas Is. and then cross the Strait. You will NOT be allowed to cross "Area Whiskey Golf" if it active - don't even think about trying, you will be promptly and seriously escorted out.
We like to cruise through Nanaimo and partially up the Georgia Strait to our friends at "Schooner Cove Marina." At Schooner Cove we get a "jump" on crossing the Strait, can get a good night's rest before crossing the next day, relax in the pool and hot tub, and have a nice meal in the restaurant. If we need to spend an extra day in port, that's no problem since we can go golfing or relax by the pool.
Either route you choose, you need to understand that crossing Georgia Strait can be a challenge. The Georgia Strait is a small inland sea, complete with swells. Listen to the continuous Weather Radio broadcasts. If the forecast is for SE winds, small craft warnings, or gales, stay in Nanaimo. Generally, summer winds are from the NW. You'll want to listen to conditions at the following places: Entrance Is., Ballenas Is., Sisters Is., Merry Is., Greif Pt., Cape Mudge, and Cape Lazo. If they report the sea condition as "3 foot moderate" (or worse), or winds over 18 knots, the best bet is to stay in Nanaimo and wait for calmer conditions.
If you choose to go from Nanaimo to Campbell River it is about 75 nm (yellow route).
If on this route, and the Strait gets too rough you can find refuge at False Bay on Lasqueti Island, Ford Cove on Hornby Island, anchorages within Baynes Sound, or moorage in Comox. You'll find much more "open water" on this route and less scenery. There's plenty of moorage at Discovery Marina in Campbell River, and best yet, it's close to groceries and supplies.
If you choose to go from Nanaimo to Desolation Sound it is about 66 nm (red route). This is the route I'd recommend. Why? Because you'll end up in one of the most beautiful places on this earth - Desolation Sound. Capt. Vancouver during his voyage here in the early 1800's named this "a most dreary and desolate place." However, I believe most boaters and visitors to Desolation Sound today would disagree with Capt. Vancouver. If the Strait gets too rough you can take refuge at one of the many marinas in Pender Harbor, or anchorages in Hardy Bay, or the marina in Westview/Powell River or Lund. There are numerous anchorages and marinas within Desolation Sound. Refuge Cove offers good moorage, famous baked goods, and hearty hamburgers. On the other side, Squirrel Cove is an excellent safe, protected anchorage.
Whether you're at Campbell River or in Desolation Sound, perhaps unbeknownst to you, changes have taken place. One, you've passed beyond the 45th parallel - halfway between the equator and the North Pole; And two, the waters you're cruising on now drain north on an ebb tide and flow out through Queen Charlotte Sound versus draining south and flowing out the Strait of Juan de Fuca. While this may seem trivial, it is significant because you will have to traverse one or more narrow marine passes that have notorious and potentially dangerous tidal rapids. It is important that you traverse through these passes during slack tide. You must have knowledge of when slack tide occurs. Again, your tides and currents manual must be consulted.
If you are in Campbell River your route is "up" Discovery Passage, round Chatham Point and into Johnstone Strait. (See yellow route in below image) We'll conclude this route at the Broken Islands in Johnstone Strait. (Don't confuse these Broken Islands with the Broken Is. in Barkley Sound.) At the Broken Is. you'll be at another decision point for which route you can take to Greenway Sound Marina. At Campbell River you are well over halfway to Greenway now. This route is approximately 55 nm. This route is also very popular with cruise ships and commercial shipping so be prepared to meet many fishing boats, tugs, barges, and other large vessels. Know the "rules of the road" and I recommend you stay out of their way. The eastern side of Johnstone Strait is for northbound traffic, and the western side is for southbound traffic.
To go this route, you will need to know when slack occurs at Seymour Narrows. Remember many other boats will want to pass through Seymour Narrows at slack. So watch your wake, be courteous, and be patient. I would suggest knowing when high slack - end of the flood turning to ebb - occurs. If you choose this time you can take advantage of the resulting ebb current to help push you north. Secondly, listen to the weather radio for wind/wave conditions at Chatham Point and Fanny Island. The mountains on either side of the Johnstone Strait serve as a "funnel" for the typical NW winds that occur commonly through the summer months. Johnstone Strait has a notorious reputation for potentially rough conditions, especially if a hard blowing NW wind meets a strong ebbing current. Opportunities to escape rough water conditions on this route are limited. However, one of the best refuges is at our good friends at Blind Channel Marina.
If you're relaxing in Desolation Sound, this route (see red route in above image) will take you up Calm Channel through Yuculta/Gillard/Dent rapids, Cordero Channel, Whirlpool rapids, Sunderland Channel, and then Johnstone Strait. This route sounds much more treacherous with mention of numerous rapids, but if you proceed through Gillard Rapids at high slack, you will be able to navigate the other rapids without too much concern. However, remember traversing any tidal rapid should be done with respect and caution. This route is very scenic, is not known for windy or rough water conditions, and offers you once again plenty of options for mooring and anchoring. We prefer this route and find it very relaxing and not as challenging as the route through Seymour Narrows. This route is approximately 80 nm.
To go this route, it is important that you plan for slack tide at Gillard Rapids. Yuculta (pronounced "yew-caw-taw") Rapids is the first rapid you'll encounter, then Gillard Rapids, then Dent Rapids. Again, I recommend traversing Gillard Rapids at high slack, then taking advantage of an ebb current to push you through Dent Rapids and down Cordero Channel towards Johnstone Strait. This is a popular strategy and you'll have plenty of other recreational boat traffic doing the same thing. Remember, when traveling through a pass, watch your wake and be courteous of other boaters. Sometimes the currents can accentuate your wake and make conditions dangerous for others. You are always responsible for your wake. Plan to arrive at Yuculta Rapids a few minutes before slack in order to get at Gillard Rapids at slack. Don't arrive too early and definitely don't arrive too late. If you are too late to make Gillard Rapids at slack - more than 15-20 minutes - I'd suggest you turn around and find a nearby moorage or anchorage and try it again later at the next period of slack current. Trust me, there's a reason some features around Gillard and Dent Rapids have names like "Devils Hole." Besides that, what's the hurry? Tom and Ann and the staff at Greenway Sound Marine Resort will still be there waiting for you.
As you travel down beautiful Cordero Channel you can stop in and visit our friends at Blind Channel Marina. Blind Channel Marina has an excellent restaurant, groceries and fuel. You may want to stay at Blind Channel Marina to wait for slack at Green Point Rapids, but you can traverse these rapids with caution and respect, but they're not as notorious as Seymour, Yuculta, Gillard, or Dent rapids. After Green Point Rapids you can continue directly to Johnstone Strait, or take a jog up Wellbore Channel, through Whirlpool Rapids, and up Sunderland Channel to Johnstone Strait. While any tidal rapids should be treated with respect and caution, many boats traverse Whirlpool Rapids during non-slack times. Make sure you listen to the continuous weather radio channel for weather conditions at Fanny Is.. If the winds exceed 20 knots, you may want to stay at Blind Channel Marina, or at your cozy anchorage and wait for better conditions. You've got about 15 nautical miles of Johnstone Strait to experience before you get to the Broken Islands. If the conditions on the Strait are too rough, you can duck into Port Neville.
Assuming the conditions were good and you arrive at the Broken Is. you now have another decision to make. You can continue to travel up Johnstone Strait towards Port McNeill and Queen Charlotte Strait, or turn north and go up Havannah Channel. Havannah Channel is a popular, scenic, calm water route that gets you to Greenway Sound Marine Resort perhaps sooner. There are plenty of moorage and anchorage opportunities along the way too. One of them is our friends at Lagoon Cove. The only challenge on this route is Chatham Narrows. The current in Chatham Narrows is swift but there are no rapids, however the channel is narrow. If you wait for slack or near slack and follow the range markers it is "a piece of cake." Once you have passed Chatham Narrows, pass historic Minstrel Island, cross Knight Inlet, and enter Tribune Channel you are almost at Greenway Sound. Tribune Channel is long winding fjord with no challenges. At the end of Tribune Channel you are in beautiful Sim
oom Sound. Now all you have to do is travel up Sutlej Channel and turn SW into Greenway Sound. From the Broken Islands to Greenway the distance is 80 nm. Make sure you call on VHF Channel 66A and the friendly staff at Greenway will tell you where to moor and help you tie up your boat. Don't forget your dinner reservations!
You could also travel down Knight Inlet and enter Spring Passage en route to Simoom Sound and Greenway. However, this route has many potential underwater hazards and requires considerable skill in reading charts and navigation. You may save a few miles, but why stress yourself? This is supposed to be a beautiful, relaxing trip.
If you decided not to take Havannah Channel and proceed to Port McNeill, you can still make it to Greenway Sound Marine Resort. From Port McNeill you'll want to round Pulteney Point on Malcolm Island and proceed north crossing Queen Charlotte Strait to Wells Passage. From Wells Passage turn east to travel down Sutlej Passage, passing our friends at Sullivan Bay and turning south into Greenway Sound. If you go this route, make sure you listen to the continuous weather forecasts for Queen Charlotte Strait and pay specific attention to conditions at Herbert Island, Pulteney Point, and Scarlett Point. These marine weather reporting locations will give you an idea of sea conditions for crossing Queen Charlotte Strait.
The distance from Friday Harbor to Greenway is about 270 nm, if you break the trip up into comfortable "cruising legs" it makes for a very enjoyable trip. A sample relaxing cruising itinerary might look like this:
Day Cruising Leg Comments Friday Harbor to Thetis Is., Gulf Islands. Stop in Sidney to go through & clear customs. Thetis Is. to Nanaimo.
Go through Dodd Narrows. Explore Nanaimo and Newcastle Is. park. Nanaimo to Pender Harbor Cross Georgia Strait Pender Harbor to Refuge Cove, Desolation Sound Alternate anchorage at Squirrel Cove. Refuge Cove to Blind Channel Marina Traverse Yuculta, Gillard, Dent rapids. Check for when slack occurs! Blind Channel Marina to Lagoon Cove Marina Johnstone Strait and Chatham Narrows Lagoon Cove Marina to Greenway Sound Marine Resort Call for reservations on VHF 66A Or, you can determine a wide variety of itineraries to suit your cruising style. We have been making this trip for over 15 years and found it easy to do, as long as you and your boat are prepared and have the time.
Before you start your adventure you'll
need the following: charts, radar reflector (required for cruising Canadian waters), and a tide/current atlas for British Columbia waters. It's also suggested, but not required, you have a GPS, and radar. If you have one of those fancy chartplotters, or a computer with charts, that's great, but remember you are required by law to have paper charts on board your vessel for the areas you are traveling. Additionally, why don't you pick up a copy of the book "North of Desolation Sound" by Peter Vassilopoulos. It's a great cruising guide resource. To find out more about this book, click here.
